Today we set off from Bonifacio at 7 am and the sea was really peu agitee after all to varying degrees. We saw more shipping today than we have seen before mostly bulk container ships which look top heavy and oil tankers.
After 130 miles we came to Santa Marinella a small village some 20 miles north of Rome. We arrived at 2 pm and went into the harbour to refuel. Both the Almanac and the Pilot had shown fuel to be available on the quay so we had made for this harbour and we found the 5 pumps and attempted to tie up on the small pontoon in front of them. There was little space in which to manoeuvre and we had two goes at getting alongside – the third time we were successful and we tied up. Whereupon two men in a dinghy appeared waving their fingers and saying no fuel. We asked when it would open and they said never. So we exited as gracefully as we could and anchored just outside the harbour by a beach where it said on the chart we could.
Perhaps in Italian law it is not allowed to put up a sign on a pump saying no fuel, and it is compulsory to watch and wait while the Brits spend 10 frustrating minutes tying up before approaching them with bad news. So we made a cup of tea to soothe our frayed nerves and had our snooze. When we woke it was a calm and peaceful early evening and it was lovely to be bobbing about at anchor again. We opened a bottle of red wine to deal with any nerves that had not been soothed by the cup of tea and soon were feeling much better.
On watch
Plotting
Michael did some plotting and Ann cooked lobster bisque, peppers stuffed with fish and prawns and melon. We decided that tomorrow on our way down south we would call in at a marina near Rome to get fuel. And so it was Scrabble – Michael won.
June 5
It was a peaceful night and we were up for the off at 8 am. An hour later we arrived in a marina on the coast at Rome and were served by a friendly man at the fuel – our faith in Italian fuel services is beginning to return. Then onwards in a perfect sea, perfect weather everything perfect and mer belle. Our best day. We passed Anzio where Michael’s Dad landed in the war. He never wanted to talk about his war experiences – all we know is that he was called up and made his way through the ranks to major and served in Italy and N. Africa. The first time Michael met him was at the age of four when a soldier walked in the door with his gun. We have some letters that he wrote to the family at home and we resolved that when we return we shall have a closer look at them. He also mentioned Amalfi which we shall pass tomorrow.
So we glided along keeping a careful watch out for the big tuna nets that the pilot book told us the fishermen put out and we had to divert round two of them. The scenery changed from flat to mountainous. The mountains were volcanic looking with little vegetation and very rounded and dark. After 105 miles we arrived at Gaeta 40 miles north of Naples at 2pm. We tied up at the fuel and although the sign said they did not open until 3 pm we were immediately served by a very helpful man who also showed us where to berth. Our faith in Italian fuel services is now completely restored.
We had a snack lunch and rested before setting off for the town. We found it to be delightful. Again tiny streets with little shops but they sold everything that we needed. We bought a seabass for 3 euros and some chicken trussed up with some bacon slices on top, fruit and vegetables. The shops had just opened up after the siesta and everyone was wishing everone Buona Serra as if it was a brand new day and they all seemed to know each other. The only time we have been to Italy before was a week in Venice so all of the Italian customs are new to us.
We returned to the boat and Michael prepared sea bass and veg followed by strawberries washed down by a bottle of Chianti. The sun had shone all day and it was beginning to heat up and the forecast is very good for the next few days so we shall be pressing on tomorrow.
Michael won Scrabble
Silueta at Gaeta with Italian navy ship in the background